Propagating Columbine

Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)is one of my all-time favorite flowers, and a native to the lovely Blue Ridge Mountains. I've just finished an assignment for school that involves specific directions for growing this flower from seed, and I thought I'd share it with all of you. I might add that I've been growing it myself, as well, and it doesn't really need all of this to grow. It's quite happy sending up a shoot in some moist potting soil by the window sill. But, if you want to do it well, here's how:

Seed Collection

Columbine seeds turn jet black when they are mature and ready to be harvested around the end of July through August in my region (Western North Carolina). A stalk containing ripe seeds should be cut off and placed in a paper bag upside down. Leave the stalks in the bags for a few days, until they dehisce (dry out), then shake the bag vigorously. Then, seeds can be collected from the bottom of the bag, ready to be sown.

Preparation

In preparing to germinate the seeds, fill the germination plug tray (material 2) with Fafard germination mix medium (material 4). You should fill the individual units to ¼" of the top of the tray. Then wet the medium thoroughly using a sanitary water source, such as drinking water. Do not add fertilizer. Fertilizer may damage seedlings at this stage of growth(Davis).


Stratification

It is not necessary to provide Columbine seeds with a period of cold stratification, but in studies it has shown to improve the germination time. Therefore, a chilling period of 3-4 weeks at a temperature of 41 degrees F (Hartmann et al. p. 815) is recommended. Sow 2-3 seeds on the surface of the growing medium in each unit of the germination tray. Medium should be kept somewhat moist during the stratification period.

Germination
Once the seeds have been stratified, they should be watered thoroughly and placed in the greenhouse for germination. Columbine needs alternating day/night temperatures. Hartmann and Kester recommend day temperatures of 76 degrees F and night temperatures of 68 degrees F (Hartmann et al. p. 815). The growing medium should be kept evenly moist during germination. Regular misting will help maintain high humidity, as well, which can reduce transpiration and promote growth.

Vigorous Growth Period

Once the roots of the seedlings have begun to fill the germination tray units, it is time to transplant them to the larger multipot containers. In a large bucket, mix the Fafard Pro-Mix BX with the Nutricote Fertilizer at a rate of 0.15lbs of Fertilizer for every cubic foot of medium. Once the growing medium is mixed, fill the multipots about ¾ of the way up. With you finger or a pencil, make a small hole about ¼" to ½" deep. Carefully take seedlings out of the germination tray units by pushing up from the bottom of the units. *Caution* if you pull on the seedlings, the stems or foliage may break, resulting in plant death.
After transplanting the seedlings, pat the growing medium down around the plants and thoroughly water using a mist system or bottom watering system to avoid breaking the stems.
If the seedlings are crowded in the multipots, they must be cut back to allow for proper air circulation. This will help reduce the chance of fungus attacking the plant and prevent smaller plants from becoming lost under the larger ones (Davis).
Keep day/night temperatures the same as during germination and keep an eye on the roots of the plants. If roots outgrow the pots, they can cause the plants to die. Once roots have filled the multipots, transplant the seedlings to quart pots filled with the same growing medium mixed with fertilizer.

Hardening Off

By this time, plants should be reaching saleable age and should be transplanted to quart pots, in which they can be sold or transplanted into the ground. The plants should be give a 2-week period of gradual hardening off in which they are slowly exposed to the outdoor environment and more variable day/night temperatures. After two weeks, the plants should be strong enough to survive in the ground. *Cation* - Be advised that even after hardening off, a hard frost can kill the foliage. In case of frost, cover the plants. The plants will not flower the first year, but the second year they will make a wonderful display, after which they will reseed themselves.

Citations and References

Armitage, Allen M. 1997. Herbaceous Perennial Plants. 2nd Edition. Stipes Publishing. Champaign, Illinois

Davis, Kathy M.; Kujawski, Jennifer L. 2001. Propagation protocol for production of container Aquilegia canadensis plants (Container plugs); Beltsville - National Plant Materials Center, Beltsville, Maryland. In: Native Plant Network. URL: http://www.nativeplantnetwork.org (accessed 3 May 2007). Moscow (ID): University of Idaho, College of Natural Resources, Forest Research Nursery.

Hartman, H.T., D.E. Kester, F.T. Davies, and R.L. Geneve. 2002. Plant Propagation Principles and Practices. 7th ed. Prentice Hall: New Jersey.